Colonia, Montevideo and Punta del Este, Uruguay
Uruguay is one of those countries that often gets overlooked in favour of its louder neighbours, Argentina and Brazil. But it turned out to be a really pleasant surprise - small, laid-back, and full of character.
We arrived in Colonia del Sacramento by ferry from Buenos Aires, crossing the wide brown waters of the Rio de la Plata. Colonia is a gorgeous little colonial town with cobblestone streets and crumbling Portuguese architecture. We hired a buggy to get around, which was far more entertaining than it had any right to be. Tearing around narrow streets in a golf cart-sized vehicle, trying not to clip a 300-year-old wall, is surprisingly good fun. After exploring the town, we headed back for dinner and spent the evening by the pool. A pretty cruisy start to Uruguay.
From Colonia we made our way to Montevideo, the capital. It’s a relaxed city that doesn’t try too hard to impress you, which is actually quite refreshing. The highlight was the Mercado del Puerto, an old port market filled with enormous parrilla grills where blokes in aprons fan the flames while slabs of beef sizzle away. We had a proper market grill dinner there - the kind of meal where you eat until it becomes a personal challenge. Afterwards we went out for drinks, and the city had a nice vibe without being overwhelming.
During our time in Montevideo, Louise and I visited Estadio Centenario, which is a genuinely significant place if you’re into your football history. It was built to host the very first FIFA World Cup final in 1930, where Uruguay beat Argentina 4-2. Walking around a stadium with that kind of history gives you goosebumps, even if the ground itself is showing its age a bit.
Next up was Punta del Este, Uruguay’s answer to the French Riviera (or so they’d like you to think). It’s where wealthy Argentines and Brazilians come to holiday, and it has a glamorous, beachy feel to it. We hit the beach and had a few drinks, which is about all you need to do in a place like that. It was nice to just switch off for a day.
Our final stop in Uruguay was Salto, a quiet town up near the Argentine border. I’ll be honest, there wasn’t a whole lot going on. We went to a day spa and then to an aquamania water park, which sounded a lot more exciting than it turned out to be (it was a bit boring, if I’m being completely honest). Sometimes you hit a dud stop on a trip, and Salto was probably ours. But it was fine - a chance to rest up before what came next.
From Salto, we faced a brutal sixteen-hour bus ride to get to Iguazu Falls. South American bus journeys are an experience in themselves - you settle in with a book, some snacks, and a prayer that the air conditioning works, and just let the hours tick by. By the time we arrived, I was well and truly ready to see some waterfalls.
